The way into Itrabo looks much as it must have done in the Moorish times of al-Andalus, over 500 years ago, leading us towards this village of whitewashed houses and narrow streets. The path, which is mentioned in records dating back to the 12th century, is quiet and unhurried, and opens out into an exuberant vegetable garden.

The nearby sound of water trickling down invites us to continue our exploration, to its source. This is reached through a pine wood, beyond which is the Catarata del Paraíso (Paradise Falls). Plantations of tropical fruits such as medlars, custard apples and mangos flourish in this generously-watered land. Another local crop is the vine; the first-pressed mosto is so abundant and of such high quality that local producers compete in an annual Wine Festival at which all the different wines can be tasted, and the prize for best mosto of the year is awarded. The wine is accompanied by bread baked in the age-old way, in wood-fired ovens, and by delicious traditional pastries.